Oh sweet smells and sounds of good old New Orleans… fresh beignets and chicory coffee… the swamps… summer thunder… white washed walls of French Quarter whispering legends and secrets of love, lust and power, condemned by society and infused by voodoo…

Last June Crescent City became home to the fifth annual HexFest – the weekend of Witchery held in the heart of French Quarter – The Bourbon Orleans Hotel. Organized by Brian Cain and Christian Day, the conference featured lots of presenters well known to US pagan community and consisted of lectures and “hands-on” workshops and magic walks in French Quarter.

The HexFest opened with Riverboat ritual and dinner on board of Creole Queen paddlewheeler. As we boarded the boat tropical rain broke down making it extra cozy to sit in red-lit hall munching on Cajun dishes.

As we sailed along Mississippi, dinner was followed by the voodoo ritual led by Bloody Mary honoring River goddess and drumming by Dragon Ritual Drummers.

Saturday morning workshops and lectures began. There were at least 3 or 4 to choose from for the same time slot, so I will only mention the ones I attended.

Sandra Mariah Wright, The Ties that Bind: Knot and Cord Magic.

New Orleans Gris-Gris: creating Magical Power Bags taught by Sen Elias.

Walking tour: Tomb of Marie Laveau led by Bloody Mary. We visited the Congo Square, where slaves used to congregate back in 18^th century and what back then was on outskirts of French Quarter. The house Marie Laveau lived and her tomb in the cemetery. Back in Congo Square we went around the big tree, so old that it must have heard the original drumming when the square was still surrounded by swamps. And did little wishing and witching.

Last lecture that day by Witchdoctor Utu: Conjuring the Spirits of Animals Kingdom.

Herbs of Love, Sex and Death by Paul Beyerl.

Followed by the Dragon Ritual Drummers in the Courtyard of the Bourbon Hotel.

While returning from lunch, crossed paths with the wedding procession and the little girl’s beauty pageant.

And at the dinner time the heavy rain broke out again, just like last night.

Sunday morning started with Piercing the Shadows: Embracing the Dark Goddess by Christine Stephens.

Dancing with the Dead: A New Orleans Spirit Workshop by Bloody Mary. It must be the voice of Bloody Mary or the manner she tells stories that makes all her workshops were so captivating and stories so live.

Conjuring Spirits: Necromantic Witchcraft by Christian Day.

Haitian Vodou: Doorway to Magic Power by Mambo Marie Carmel.

Closing ritual took place at the Moonwalk along the banks of the magical Mississippi by the Jackson square “for a closing rite to thank the spirits for their blessings and to honor the magic and friendships created during their powerful time” – as the program guide said.

As the waves licked the sugar powder off the docks of Mississippi river from Café Du Monde’s beignet and coffee sacrifice we said good by to the annual witchcraft conference.

But there was one more treat awaiting that evening:  Supernatural New Orleans Tour by Bloody Mary. It started with the ghost hunt in the ballroom of the Bourbon Hotel that was haunted for years.

Then we went into the streets of French quarter visiting house of Madame La Laurie, 18^th century socialite and alleged serial killer.  Spotted some demons and haunted passageways whispering forbidden love stories.

Did a little coffee grinds ritual on the pavement of French quarter soaking in all this history and legends.

My flight back to NYC left very early next morning so I stayed up late wondering the streets and saying good-bye to the magical Crescent City.